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STORY BY GARY THOMAS
If you're looking for a place to "get away from it all," Illinois Beach State Park probably is not for you. But if you're looking for a site that has it all, consider a trip to this park located along Illinois' inland ocean. Illinois Beach contains 4,160 acres divided into two units. It is Illinois' busiest state park, with approximately 2.5 million visitors each year, or an average of 6,500 visitors each day. The park hosts 250,000 campers annually, creating a small city of 2,000 people in the park each weekend throughout the summer. When you stop and think about where the park is located, those numbers begin to make sense. Illinois Beach is on Lake Michigan, running from the Wisconsin state line to Waukegan, a one-mile-wide park with 6.5 miles of shoreline. That placement puts it between Chicago and Milwaukee, which means more than 12 million people live within 50 miles of the park. Okay, those are big numbers, but don't let them scare you away. Despite the large numbers of people attracted to this area, the park features some remarkably peaceful areas. Most visitors will be found near the resort, beach and campgrounds, but 75 percent of the park is a dedicated nature preserve and a National Natural Landmark. Step away from the crowds and enjoy sprawling marshes, extensive
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savannas and large stands of black oak, pines and prairies. Take the time to explore miles of sand dunes formed by glaciers, wind and wave action. And it's not just sand. You'll find yourself wandering amongst more than 650 species of plants- everything from prickly pear cactus, lupine, Indian paintbrush, blazing star and western sunflower to numerous types of grasses and sedges. The tricky part of managing a park of this magnitude and diversity is shuffling 2.5 million people in and out while protecting the site's natural environment, something park superintendent Bob Grosso has been doing for nearly 30 years. "We have a very unique natural resource here, and millions of people who want to enjoy it each year," Grosso said. "Our job is to make sure our visitors enjoy the park, but not at the expense of our unique ecosystem." The state park has a colorful history too. When the French arrived in the 1600s, the area was inhabited by Potawatomi, Chippewa and Ottawa Indians of the Algonquin Nation. By the time Illinois became a state in 1818, hunters, trappers and a few permanent Europeans had moved to the area. In 1836, a treaty was made with the Indian tribes and they moved farther west, paving the way for European settlement. During the Civil War, part of what is now Illinois Beach State Park became Camp Logan, a prisoner of war camp that housed thousands of Confederate soldiers. The installation went on to serve as an Army basic training center in World War I and World War II, before being turned over to the Illinois National Guard in the late 1940s.
Environmentalists realized the uniqueness of this area and worked to preserve the lake's sand dunes and surrounding land during the late 19th century. In 1888, when Robert Douglas, a Waukegan nurseryman, and Jens Jensen, a nationally famous landscape architect, noticed industrial growth and nearby sand mining, they tried to get lawmakers to protect the land as a regional park. Nothing came of this effort. In fact, legislative efforts to save this area didn't begin until the 1920s. Hollywood has used the park, too. Charlie Chaplin is said to have visited the south end of the park when filming a movie in the 1920s. "Main Trail," a western shot in the early 1940s also was filmed on land that would become Illinois Beach State Park. The State of Illinois began acquiring parcels of land in 1948, and the Illinois Dunes Preservation Society was established in the 1950s to help protect the unique ecosystem. Still active today, this organization's efforts resulted in the 1964 dedication of the area south of Beach Road as the nation's first nature preserve. Between 1971 and 1982, the Department of Conservation purchased the northern unit of the park, which runs from the nuclear power plant to the Wisconsin border. In May 2000, Illinois Beach State Park and the North Point Marina were designated the Cullerton Complex in honor of environmentalist William J. Cullerton. A war hero and long-time host of an outdoor program on WGN radio, Cullerton spent nearly 50 years promoting fishing and hunting and supporting outdoor organizations and events. August 2002 9
Let's take a look at some of the activities available for an Illinois Beach State Park visitor. Start your visit at the park's interpretive center. Located near the park's resort facility, it recently has been renovated and is open year-round. There are educational displays and a 'hands-on' exhibit area. Throughout the summer months, programs and activities familiarize visitors with the natural, historical and recreational features of Illinois Beach. "We're very proud of the environmental education programs our interpreters offer local schools," Grosso said. "Our interpreters provide five hour-long visits to every Zion fifth grade class. After the school visits, the 12 classes then come to the park for a .half-day to experience what they have learned in the classroom. It's a great event for the kids."
The most popular part of the park during the summer months is the 6.5-mile beach. Thousands of northern Illinoisans are attracted to the sand and water. Some consider the water somewhere between cool and frigid and even on steamy days, take only a few steps into the lake. Then there are those hardy souls who spend much of the day frolicking in the water. Services at the north and south units of the park include large parking lots and bathhouses with showers; however, no lifeguards are posted so swimming is at your own risk. Shore anglers can fish in Lake Michigan, except at designated swimming areas. Anglers also may enjoy fishing on five ponds in the south unit and Sand Pond in the north unit. All have good populations of sunfish and bass. Sand Pond includes an accessible fishing pier for disabled anglers and is stocked in the spring and fall with catchable-sized trout. Illinois Beach is well-known for its rather unique river—the Dead River—a stream that seldom flows. Most of the year, the stream is blocked by sandbars near where it enters Lake Michigan. When the river rises enough to break through the sandbars, it empties into the lake and drains surrounding marshes. Despite the river's name, it features an abundance of aquatic plants and fish. The park has excellent hiking and hiking trails. The southern unit has more than 5 miles of trail, including a 2.2-mile loop trail with a graveled surface that wanders through the nature preserve. The Camp Logan Trail in the north unit includes a 1.8-mile loop that also is available for cross-country skiers during winter months. No cross-country skiing is allowed in the nature preserve area. Numerous bike riding opportunities exist, including a trail that connects with the Zion Bike Trail. Illinois Beach also is a great area for visitors wanting to view wildlife— especially if you're a birder. The fall hawk migration is spectacular. Last year, volunteers counted more than 10 OutdoorIllinois
3,900 hawks migrating through the park, including a record number of peregrine falcons (more than 40 in one day) and osprey (66 in one day), not to mention bald and golden eagles, merlins, kestrels, cooper's hawks, sharp-shinned hawks and northern goshawks.
During the last two years, birders spotted two birds rare to the state—the red-cockaded woodpecker and the brown-headed nuthatch. The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service considers the park critical habitat for the endangered piping plover. Numerous picnic areas are located in the northern and southern units, with most close to the lake. There are fire rings at some of the areas, or you can bring a grill. Firewood and/or charcoal are available from the park's concession. Located in the southern unit, the park's campground offers 244 Class A sites with electricity and a shower facility. Campers must check in at the park's office before taking a site. Reservations for campsites can be made during the summer months by contacting the park office.
Illinois Beach has two concessions, each open May through October. The south unit concession, located near the main parking lot and adjacent to the swimming beach, includes food, soft drinks, camping supplies and a small gift shop. The north unit concession is near the park office and offers light refreshments. "One of the best features of Illinois Beach State Park is its beautiful Resort and Conference Center," Grosso said. "It has been fully restored and is a well-run facility." Overlooking Lake Michigan and featuring 96 guest rooms, this full-service facility includes a restaurant, cocktail lounge, video game room, an Olympic-size indoor heated pool and large whirlpool. Guests may also use the full-service health club that includes exercise equipment and a sauna. Lake Michigan's newest and largest marina, North Point Marina, also is located in Illinois Beach State Park's north unit near the Wisconsin border. This full-service marina includes 1,500 slips, a boat service center and a restaurant. Illinois Beach State Park has long been recognized for its uniqueness and spectacular beauty. Add this park to your list of Illinois places you absolutely have to visit.
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