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Horseradish in Southern Illinois
Nicole Dinkelmann Belleville Township High School West, Belleville Horseradish is a root that is used worldwide. Whether it is called raifort in France or wasabi in Japan, it is perhaps best known in Collinsville, "the horseradish capital of the world." The name horseradish is actually an inaccurate description of the mustard root. The Germans called it meerrettich, meaning sea radish because it was grown in the lowland parts of Germany near the sea. The English, however, mistook meer (which sounds like mare) to mean horse and translated the word to horseradish. In 1597 the first known publication of the word horseradish was in John Gerarde's English work on medicinal plants. Horseradish produces a hardy root which is ground up to make the horseradish condiment. The plant grows to two-and-a-half-feet tall, while the root can penetrate five to ten feet into the ground. The large tap root has many side roots that extend vertically as well as horizontally. The strong smell and hot flavor of horseradish are not apparent until the root is ground or grated. This is because enzymes are activated when the root cells are crushed, causing the release of "highly volatile oils." The condiment is commonly used as a relish or in a sauce for meats and shellfish. Chemical companies can use the plant for many reasons. For example, horseradish peroxidase has been sold to universities for testing purposes. Southern Illinois University in Edwardsville discovered that it could be used to help make waste water sanitary. Commercially, horseradish is grown as an annual crop. The growing season is from May to late fall. The crop is double harvested to spread the income throughout the year and for storage purposes. Horseradish does not have to be stored as long as it is in the soil since it is unaffected by the freezing and thawing of the ground. It is planted in the early part of spring, and the root is harvested in the spring and also in the fall. In the fall, when most of the growing of the root occurs, the root is not fully mature, but the fresh autumn root is needed to grind with the stored spring root.
The horseradish plant rarely produces many seeds; hence, planting is usually done by root cutting or crown cutting. Crown cutting occurs when the grower slices the main root in half lengthwise, leaving buds on both sides. With root cutting, six- to eight-inch pieces of older roots are planted to grow horseradish. Commercial growers must also "lift" the roots to grow one large main root. This occurs when growers remove the root from the soil, take off all of the lateral roots, and then replant the main root to finish growing. When the root is planted, it must be done carefully, and when the soil is replaced, it should not disturb the position of the root. Horseradish roots have the hottest flavor when they are fresh. A high-quality fresh root or horseradish product is creamy white in color. It also has a pungent smell. As horseradish loses freshness, it darkens in color. Horseradish has appeared in significant cultures throughout history. As early as 1500 B.C., the Egyptians knew about horseradish. Horseradish also plays an important role in Jewish Passover ceremonies. It is one of the six items associated with the slavery of the Israelites in Egypt. Horseradish represents the bitterness of the life endured by Hebrew slaves. Ancient Greeks also used horseradish for many medical reasons. According to legend, Apollo was told by the Delphic oracle that the radish was 34 ILLINOIS HISTORY/ FEBRUARY 2000 worth its weight in lead, the beet its weight in silver, and the horseradish its weight in gold. Horseradish use spread to England and Scandinavia from central Europe during the Renaissance, but the British would not eat it because they saw it as a lowly root. By the late 1600s, however, horseradish accompanied beef and oysters on the tables of all British classes. It was also grown at inns and coach stations in England for the travelers. Early settlers brought horseradish to the North American colonies, and by the 1800s its use was prevalent in the northeastern part of the United States. By 1840 it grew wild near Boston, Massachusetts. In Illinois horseradish has been an important crop in Madison and St. Clair Counties since the late 1800s. It was at that time that German immigrant farmers introduced the horseradish to the southwestern part of Illinois. Two German families, Fingerhut and Bruns, were believed to be the first ones to farm horseradish in the area. Although it is grown widely, including in California, Maryland, Wisconsin, and Canada, the conditions in and around Collinsville in Madison County are ideal for growing horseradish. This area known as the American Bottom is perfect because the soil is rich and loose. In Madison and St. Clair counties, about two thousand acres are dedicated to growing horseradish. This number is small compared to the half million acres devoted to corn, soybeans, and wheat, but over two-thirds of the nation's horseradish supply comes from these two counties. Each year, three to six tons of horseradish are produced per acre, totaling approximately twelve million tons per year in this area. A recent discovery of a fungus that causes verticillium root discolorations and reduces the quality has affected some horseradish farms in Illinois. Some are losing up to half of their crop. To prevent this, Robert Gerstenecker, who is in charge of St. Clair/Madison Cooperative Extension with the University of Illinois' horseradish studies program, is experimenting to combine various forms of horseradish in hopes of creating one resistant to the fungus. The Keller family near Collinsville has been growing horseradish for generations. In 1895 Mary and Ferdinand Keller bought 261 acres of farmland. In 1901 they purchased another 80 acres. Even though most of the farm is dedicated to grain crops, horseradish generates a significant profit. In December 1995 John, Louis, and Bill Keller celebrated the farm's centennial. Another example of horseradish's influence in Collinsville is the J. R. Kelly Company, "The Horseradish House." This company was founded in 1933. Originally located in St. Louis, the company sold horseradish for area farmers. In 1974, after the death of J. R. Kelly, local growers purchased the company. Today two local growers own the company, and it is located in Collinsville, Illinois. The company has ten acres of property where the plant is farmed. It sells five to six million pounds of horseradish each year, some of which comes from ten local farmers. Collinsville's title of "the horseradish capital of the world" is not only appropriate for quantity but also for the quality of the crop grown in the region. In 1988 the Horseradish Festival was created to celebrate this status. The Twelfth Annual Horseradish Festival was held at Woodland Park in Collinsville on June 5 and 6, 1999. This festival had many games involving the horseradish root such as the "root toss." There were also pony rides and craft booths, and horseradish products and souvenirs were available for sale. After more than a century, horseradish still continues to thrive. The belief among horseradish farmers in and around Collinsville is that it will continue to play an important economic part of the area for years to come.—[From Belleville Journal, June 2, 1999; Belleville News Democrat, Dec. 9, 1995, May 30, 1999; "Horseradish," http://www.ag.usask. c a/c of a/departments/hort/hortinfo/veg/horserad.html; International Horseradish Festival, "Horseradish . . . Rooted in History"; "J. R. Kelly Company," http://www.jrkelly.com/profile.html; J. J. Rodale, ed., How to Grow Vegetables & Fruits by the Organic Method; University of Illinois, "Illinois Horseradish a Natural Condiment"; J. S. Vandemark and J. W. Courier, Vegetable Gardening for Illinois.] ILLINOIS HISTORY/ FEBRUARY 2000 35 |
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