Your
YARD AND GARDEN

Dave Robson

There are more than 50 spring flowering bulbs that can be planted in the fall. Of course, the most common are tulips, daffodils and crocuses.

Others have more exotic names, such as Pischkinia, Chionodoxa, Allium gigantum, Fritillaria and Anemone.

Bulbs are living plants that contain the makings of complete flowers.

If you slice through a bulb vertically, you might be able to see next year's leaves, stem and flowers. However, most bulbs have to go through a chilling or cold period in order to produce the flower buds.

Surrounding most bulbs are fleshy "scales" that supply nourishment throughout the winter and early spring. Scales are actually modified leaves.

The paper thin wrapping around the outside of the bulb is called a tunic and provides protection from insects and diseases. Many homeowners mistakenly remove the tunic before planting. It's not necessary.

The flat bottom of the bulb is the basal plate and the location of new roots. Occasionally, roots are already formed, which provide some direction as to the top and bottom of the bulb.

Since the bulb is a living plant, it is susceptible to change. Ground temperatures in the 50s stimulate root growth while temperatures in the 40s may trigger leaf and stem growth after a root system has developed.

Spring flowering bulbs must be planted in the fall in order to take advantage of winter's temperatures. Planting from mid-September through November ensures the 15 to 20-week cooling period necessary for root growth.

Good drainage is essential for all spring flowering bulbs. If the soil is heavy clay or sand, condition it with liberal additions of organic matter such as peat moss or compost in amounts up to 50 percent of the volume. Don't grow bulbs in pure compost as it doesn't provide the insulation from penetrating cold.

Fertilization improves bulb performance and encourages bulbs to perennialize. Two fertilizing methods are recommended for spring-flowering bulbs.

The first method uses a sulfur-coated, slow release complete fertilizer. The fertilizer, available at garden centers and nurseries, is applied to the rooting area at the rate of one rounded tablespoon per square foot at fall planting.

The second method uses one handful of bone meal applied to each square foot of rooting area, together with an application of 8-8-8 (1 tablespoon) or 10-10-10 (one heaping teaspoon) per square foot in the fall.

A complete fertilizer is needed to stimulate growth next spring.

Bulb roots grow down and out, so planting depths and spacing are important. Large bulbs such as tulips and daffodils should be planted 8 inches deep from the ground to the basal plate and 4 to 6-inches apart.

Note the depth. Many people can find 8-inches on a ruler, but when digging a hole for a bulb, they stop at 4 inches. The deeper the hole, the longer the bulb will live.

Bulb augers (similar to a large drill bit) attached to an electric drill make planting bulbs quick and easy. Cordless drills may work for only a couple of bulbs; they may not have sufficient power reserves for heavy planting.

Smaller bulbs for such as the crocus and grape hyacinth should be spaced 4 inches deep and 2 inches apart.

After planting bulbs, cover them halfway with conditioned soil and water thoroughly. Add the remaining soil and water the area again.

Finally, cover the area with a 3 inch layer of mulch. Wood chips, peat moss or bark are good choices because they don't mat and prevent water and nutrients from soaking into the soil.

David Robson is an Extension Educator, Horticulture, at the Springfield Extension Center, Cooperative Extension Service, University of Illinois. You can write to Robson incare of Illinois Country Living, P.O. Box 3787, Springfield, IL 62708. Telephone: 217-782-6515. E-Mail: robsond@idea.ag.uiuc.edu

16 ILLINOIS COUNTRY LIVING OCTOBER 1996