After the flood
Cleaning up can be an opportunity to improve your home

Though recent spring seasons have brought flooding to riverside homes and low areas, flash floods can happen anytime. Cleaning up after a flood can be an emotional and expensive experience, but it also gives home-owners an opportunity to make improvements in their home's energy efficiency that can save money over the long term.

Although everyone wants life to return to normal as soon as possible, for safety, health and financial reasons it's a good idea to take the time to do the job right. Insulation and most appliances will need to be replaced anyway. So this is a perfect time to upgrade your home with increased insulation and appliances with higher energy efficiencies. The small increase in cost for more energy efficient materials and appliances will be paid back in energy savings and increased comfort.

Building materials exposed to flood waters can decay, swell, warp or shift out of alignment. Electrical equipment and gas valves can corrode. Wet material is a perfect place for mold growth. Allergic reactions are not uncommon. A flooded home must be cleaned, dried and decontaminated before any other repairs can begin. Flood waters and mud often contain sewage, hazardous materials, and microorganisms that make decontamination a critical but sometimes neglected part of the clean up process. A solution of 5 percent to 10 percent chlorine bleach and water are recommended for decontamination. It's a good idea to repeat the treatment at least twice within 30 minutes. Be sure to ventilate the area and wear a mask and waterproof gloves to protect yourself.

Cleaning out the water, mud and other debris is just the first step. Drying out the home can take several days or several months depending on the flood damage and weather after the storm.

Wood framing will normally be structurally sound, but if moisture persists decay will cause damage. Wet wood swells, but usually returns to its original dimensions. The problem is that new cracks may develop between building materials. These will need to be sealed to prevent air infiltration later. Drywall and insulation act like a sponge and in almost every case should be removed and replaced. Older homes can really benefit by increasing the level of insulation. If flood waters reach the ceiling, remove all insulation and allow rafters and trusses to dry. Even humidity levels can cause wet, sagging ceilings to collapse.

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Most floors will not survive a flood. Remove floor coverings to speed drying of the sub-floor. Older subflooring may need to be replaced. In a crawl space or basement, remove all wet insulation and plastic sheeting. In most cases duct work and duct insulation will need to be replaced. Mud, mold and mildew can be difficult to clean out of ducts. In basements it may not be a good idea to remove standing water immediately. Ground water outside the basement is pushing hard against basement walls. At the same time, water in the basement is pushing out. Keep the sides balanced until water subsides, otherwise the basement floor and walls may crack.

Some say fiberglass insulation can be dried and reused, but most experts recommend replacement to avoid mold and mildew and speed the drying process. Besides, replacing insulation is relatively cheap and higher insulating materials can be used. A standard two-by-four wall with fiberglass insulation batts rated at R-11 can be upgraded to R-13 or R-15 with medium or high density fiberglass. Even better R-values can be achieved with foam sheathing or new cellulose insulation products.

Before re-insulating walls, floors or attics, seal any air-leakage paths around sill plates, chimneys, flues and plumbing penetrations with caulking or expanding foam.

When replacing insulation you may discover new areas of moisture. You may be tempted to complete the insulation job, but it is obviously better to wait and let the area dry completely. Be patient; it can take weeks, but you will avoid headaches later caused by rotting building materials or serious health problems caused by mold and mildew.

Older homes can really benefit by increasing the level of insulation.

To repair or replace appliances is a tough decision. Many home-owners are surprised to learn they are not covered by flood insurance and the financial burden of replacing appliances can be overwhelming. However, if possible it is almost always best to replace most appliances. You will avoid a long list of problems and you'll also benefit from the increased energy efficiency of new appliances. Also, heating and cooling systems, refrigerators, water heaters and other appliances damaged by flood water can be dangerous if not repaired properly.

Most manufacturers recommend that motors, electrical components, safety controls, and gas valves be replaced. If you add up the repair cost, along with the potential problems, replacement often makes better economic sense. In most homes insulated wiring is fairly waterproof. However, if the walls are open and connections, receptacles and switches are being repaired or replaced anyway, now may be a good time to upgrade the wiring system too.

Water heaters, either gas or electric, are better replaced than repaired in most cases. Replacement is often easy and fairly inexpensive. Valves and controls on gas water heaters can corrode. Thermostats and controls on electric water heaters will also need to be replaced. And, insulation on either type will take a long time to dry and probably cause corrosion of the tank.

Heating and air conditioning equipment should also be replaced in most cases. Even if gas valves, pressure regulators, controls and motors are replaced, parts may corrode later, causing malfunctions, loss of efficiency or safety problems. Some heat pumps and air conditioners are simply installed through the wall or window-mounted and may be salvageable. However, split systems with an indoor and outdoor unit may have a breach in the refrigeration system because of shifting during a flood. If you decided to repair the system, it should be cleaned, dried, disinfected and thoroughly checked by a qualified refrigeration mechanic. If you were using an electric resistance heater and a separate air-conditioning system, you should consider upgrading to a more energy-efficient heat pump. Have a professional size the unit properly, taking into account the new insulation levels of your home. Also, purchase a unit with the highest energy efficiency (SEER) rating you can afford.

Refrigerators and freezers, like heat pumps and air conditioners, should probably be replaced. Wet, contaminated insulation can be very slow to dry and will be conducive to bacteria growth, and that's not something you want around your food. Refrigerators, like heat pumps and air conditioners, are sealed refrigeration systems. Unless punctured during the flood, that part of the system may be in good shape. But bottom-mounted condensers and fan motors should be checked and may need replacing. Refrigerators can easily account for 15 percent of your home's energy use. Once again, a new refrigerator can also save money in the long run. Like refrigerators, washing machines and dryers may need replacement rather than repair. But other small appliances like microwaves and TVs may just need to be cleaned, dried and disinfected inside and out. With careful attention to electrical parts you may not have to replace these items, but be sure to allow plenty of drying time before testing.

Work with your insurance adjuster to decide on repair versus replacement decisions. You may also qualify for relief assistance programs. Contact the Federal Emergency Management Administration (FEMA) to find out more. For more information FEMA also has a free publication called "Repairing Your Flooded Home." FEMA also administers the National Flood Insurance Program (NFIP). For information: NFIP, 500 C Street SW, Washington, D.C. 20472, 1(800)427-5593, or on the World Wide Web http://www.fema.gov. The Red Cross can help flood victims with groceries, new clothes and emergency home repairs. The Red Cross phone number is 1(800)634-4661.

—Story by John Lowrey

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