Story and Photos

BY LIZ PENSONEAU

Nauvoo. It's a Hebrew word for "beautiful place," and it aptly describes its namesake on the Great River Road. Here Route 96 assumes the name Mulholland Steet, leading early evening travelers to the downtown area where an illuminated Victorian lamppost casts soft light on the portico of the cornflower-blue and white Hotel Nauvoo. Folks chat leisurely on the front sidewalk following dinner while another group congregates on the front porch awaiting its turn in the hotel's dining room. This 1840 frame home turned hotel is the first hint of the charm to be found in this town of 1,300, and overnight accomodations in one of its nine charming guestrooms are not only very affordable, but highly recommended.

Nauvoo was settled by Mormons in 1839, after they were forced out of Missouri by religious persecution. In 1841, Joseph Smith, founder of the Mormon Church, laid the cornerstone for a magnificent temple on a bluff overlooking both the town and the Mississippi River. Nauvoo experienced rapid growth, becoming Illinois' largest city and the 10th largest in the United States within only three years of its founding. According to information from the Nauvoo Chamber of Commerce, "internal dissension, religious antagonism and the fear of the political power of the Mormons soon exploded into a fury." In 1844, Smith and his brother Hiram were assassinated in Carthage, and in 1846, the Mormons were froced to evacuate the city shortly after the completion of the temple. The burning of the temple in 1848 was the last recorded act of anti-Mormonism in Illinois. Today, unlike most towns, Nauvoo stand on two levels: the hill and the flats. The hill houses the

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Hotel Nauvoo is a popular gathering place as its dining room offers some of the best food in the area.

business district and the majority of the private residences. The flats are the site of more than 20 restored homes and shops that were originally built by Smith and his followers. Visitors may stop by the Joseph Smith Historical Center and the LDS Visitors Center (Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints) to explore the history of the settlement. Each August, the Mormons present their renowned outdoor musical, the "City of Joseph," which tells the story of Nauvoo in song and dance.

Nauvoo is also home to the state's oldest winery. On Labor Day weekend, residents celebrate the harvest of grapes during the annual Grape Festival, which climaxes with the "Wedding of the Wine and Cheese." The cultivation of grapes is traced to the Icarians who settled in Nauvoo in 1849 following the exodus of the Mormons. Frenchman Etienne Cabet and his Icarian comrades began a short-lived experiment in communal living. Many Icarians left Nauvoo, but those who remained realized the soil and climate of Nauvoo were much like that of their native France and began the cultivation of grapes. The cool, moist wine cellars also were ideal for aging cheese and led to the establishment of Nauvoo's blue cheese industry in the 1930s.

This magnificent structure at Warsaw originally housed the Popel and Giller Brewery.

The Jonathan Browning Home and Gun Shop are part of the restoration on the flats at Nauvoo. There is no charge to tour any of the buildings that are open to the public.

Nauvoo State Park

Located adjacent to the restored Mormon community on the south edge of town is Nauvoo State Park. The 148-acre park is the site of the first vineyard planted in Nauvoo. Today, that vineyard, which has been producing grapes since the mid-1800s, is maintained by park personnel. Also gracing the property is a house originally built by Mormons in the 1840s that serves as a museum staffed by the Nauvoo Historical Society. The structure features the only Nauvoo wine cellar that is open to the public, a press room and artifacts from all periods of the town's history. Hours are from 1 to 5 p.m. from May 15 through Oct. 15.

You can camp at the park during your visit to Nauvoo as there are a total of 150 camping spaces, all class B or C, plus a youth group area. Camping is by permit, and advance notice is required for groups of 25 or more. A 13-acre fishing lake is stocked with large-mouth bass, channel catfish and bluegill. There are no boat docks or boat rentals, although a primitive boat launch is available. Only electric trolling motors are allowed.

A great way to explore the park and connect with nature is by hiking the Locust Lane Nature Trail, the park's main trail that showcases the lake and timbered areas. There

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This temple replica offers a preview of the Nauvoo Temple, which is being reconstructed at its former site by the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints at a cost of $23 million. The original temple was dedicated in 1846 and its tower rose 165 feet skyward.

Nauvoo State Park is home to the first-ever vineyard in Nauvoo, and the 1840s-era building at the site is a museum operated by the Nauvoo Historical Society.

is also a trail accessible to persons with disabilities. The park is an ideal spot for families to picnic as there are two shelter houses, and two picnic and playground areas.

Warsaw

A few miles southwest of Nauvoo is Warsaw, which was once a thriving river port community. Although its business district today reflects harder times, don't shortchange Warsaw. North of main street and nestled in a residential area, there's a small park where parents lazily relax as their children scurry on playground equipment. There you'll discover something most of us think we must travel to New York City to behold: The Statue of Liberty. At a height of 18 feet, it's tall enough to invoke patriotic sentiment and realistic enough to arouse curiosity as to how a replica of the famous statue made its way to this remote corner of Illinois.

According to Warsaw native and local historian Harley Griffin, the statue was purchased and shipped to its new home by Frank Connor, a successful Chicago businessman. Deeming it an appropriate accessory for his hometown, Connor had the statue erected and dedicated it to the Boy Scouts of America, who maintain it to this day. Griffin said the dedication of the statue in 1950 was quite the festive occasion.

The Statue of Liberty isn't the only monument in this tiny town of 1,800. A block or so north of the park, rising skyward from atop a river bluff with an outstanding view, is the Fort Edwards State Memorial. It was erected in 1914 to commemorate the establishment of Port Edwards, which was built by Major Zachary Taylor in September 1814 and later abandoned in July 1824. Taylor became the 12th US President in 1849.

Northeast of the memorial at the base of the bluff is yet another architectural wonder - the once magnificent Popel and Giller Brewery building. Founded in 1864 by the two local men whose business bore their names, the enterprise flourished until Prohibition forced its closure. Unable to regain its former success after

A replica of the Statue of Liberty at Ralston Park in Warsaw was a gift from a Chicago businessman in 1950.

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reopening, the establishment was sold in the 1940s to Consumer Beverage from the Quad Cities, which produced Bergemeister and Old Tavern brand beer until the late 1960s. In 1972, the brewery officially closed its doors. Today, the building stands in stagnant splendor, its towering rampart-like parapet proclaiming its presence to those traveling the riverside road from Hamilton to Warsaw.

Quincy

Route 96 moves on to Quincy, where tree-lined streets and architectural treasures give the city the distinction of having the largest variety of significant architecture in Illinois outside of Chicago. History buffs should note that the sixth of the famous Lincoln-Douglas debates was held at Quincy's Washington Park in 1858, the topic being slavery.

There are many points of interest including the John Wood Mansion, built in 1835 by the founder of Quincy and a former governor of Illinois; the Quincy Museum, itself housed in a circa 1891 mansion, where a miniature circus and a fine collection of Indian relics, clothing, weapons and accessories are among items on exhibit; and the Gardner Museum of Architecture and Design, which has put together several walking tours of Quincy.

Onward to Pike and Calhoun Counties

The jaunt on the River Road from Quincy to Pleasant Hill is comprised of scenic rural areas, inland from the banks of the Mississippi River. After entering Pike County, keep a watchful eye for Kinderhook's tiny post office building, which was named one of the nation's 12 most unique post offices in 1993. The county also is

The Brussels Fairy crosses from Grafton to picturesque Calhoun County.

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The Visitor Center at Pere Marquette has outstanding displays highlighting the park's wildlife, wildflowers, trees, rock formations and history.

home to the two smallest incorporated towns in Illinois: Valley City, population 23; and Time, population 36. But there is nothing small about Pike County when it comes to its reputation for trophy white-tails. Hunting has become big business in Pike County and a tremendous boost to the economy.

Still, it's hard to find a more idyllic place touched by the Great River Road than Calhoun County, a rural haven wedged between the Mississippi and Illinois rivers. Folks seeking picturesque simplicity sooner or later find their way to this pastoral setting of hills, orchards and farms that, not unlike a peninsula, is set apart from the Illinois mainland. A sense of isolation permeates life in Calhoun, creating hardships at times for permanent residents.

For visitors, though, hours spent in the county offer a break from the superhighway tedium of so much of America. The quaintness of Calhoun villages like Kampsville, Hardin and Brussels adds much to the atmosphere. Kampsville is the location of the internationally renowned Center for American Archeology. Restaurants along the Illinois at Kampsville and Hardin have been huge favorites of boaters, as well as locals.

You might also want to detour from the river road to Brussels, 18 miles south of Hardin. It's a strikingly nostalgic hamlet where Sunday dinners at Carl Wittmond's old redbrick hotel are legendary. There are ferries to Calhoun, but only one bridge spanning the Illinois River at Hardin. Efforts have been initiated through the decades to construct a bridge over the Mississippi River to Missouri. That would make day-to-day living much easier for many inhabitants of Calhoun, some residents say. On the other hand, it also is argued that easier access to the county from the heavily populated St. Louis area to the south could threaten Calhoun's serenity-currently its most distinguishing characteristic.

Pere Marquette State Park

A portion of the Great River Road (State Route 100) running past Pere Marquette to Grafton, Elsah and Alton is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful roadways in the nation. So much so, that it has earned the designation as a National Scenic Byway, including a strip of State Route 108 from Kampsville to Eldred and a picturesque blacktop south of Eldred that connects with Route 100 north of Pere Marquette. The Illinois byway totals 50 miles in all, and joins an elite list of roadways in America, including the Natchez Trace Parkway through the south and the Pacific Coast Highway in California.

If you are looking for a great getaway spot, consider Pere Marquette State Park. As Illinois' largest state park, it covers more than 8,000

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wooded acres in a fascinating area of the state. Your first stop can be the beautiful new visitor center, which hosts a wealth of displays and exhibits about wildlife habitat, geology, history and the river. A charming 50-guest-room lodge of native stone and rustic timbers built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930s awaits visitors. There are also 22 stone cottages to welcome overnight lodgers. For reservations, call (618) 786-2331.

The park offers such a wide array of activities that it is sure to have something for everyone: bluegill, carp, catfish, crappie, largemouth bass and white bass attract anglers to the river banks; 12 miles of marked trails are available for scenic hiking; the park is a famous eagle-watching site; Pere Marquette Riding Stable appeals to horseback riding enthusiasts; there is excellent habitat for squirrel, deer and turkey hunting on the park's 2,000-acre public hunting area; archery deer hunting is offered by special permit on 3,000 additional acres; turkey hunting is by special permit. For more information, call the visitor center or DNR Permit Office at (217) 782-7305. The site is also a nature lovers paradise, and a full-time site interpreter is available to provide educational programs to groups of all ages. Contact the Visitor Center for more information.

A barge glides across the Illinois River at Grafton (left). Grafton's main street (above) is home to a number of small, inviting businesses that offer a variety of wares, services and accommodations.

Grafton

Only a few miles south of Pere Marquette is Grafton, which actually is a story in itself considering that the 1993 flood devastated more than 100 buildings in town. You can't pass through without noticing the charming small businesses and the restored Ruebel Hotel, which takes guests back in time as they enter the structure. It is tastefully decorated and filled with down-home hospitality and good eats. In fact, Grafton has several great restaurants, and opportunities abound to partake in a day of relaxation just a stone's throw from the river bank.

Sport enthusiasts should note that Grafton was selected by Sports Afield magazine as the top outdoor sports town in Illinois in 1998, winning top honors for its terrific hunting and fishing opportunities. It also offers boating, water skiing, sailing, wave-running, bicycle trails, Raging Rivers Water Park, hiking, horseback riding, camping, winter bald eagle watching and golf. What more could anyone ask for? And, best of all, it's right on our own scenic byway-the Great River Road.

Since we ran out of gas a little short of Alton, we'll make our way from Elsah to Cairo in the third and final segment of our trip down the Great River Road.

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