In the Shadow of the River

Elsah, charming Elsah. Although only minutes away from Alton's urban area and a stone's throw from the Great Rivers National Scenic Byway, Elsah gives the illusion of being a lifetime removed from the commonplace. Its weathered stone cottages, clapboard houses and narrow streets are nestled in a wooded ravine surrounded by towering limestone bluffs directly below Principia College.

Some say the college has con tributed much to Elsah's uniqueness. Historically many of its staff members have maintained homes in Elsah, influencing the flavor of the community. So much so that if you have artistic

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interests, chances are good Elsah will stir a desire to remain there to write, paint, study or meditate in its inspiring environment.

The Village of Elsah dates back to 1853 when free land was offered to those willing to use stone from the local quarry for home-building purposes. Steamboats that once stopped to take on grain and fill their boilers have been replaced by tourists drawn to the village to enjoy life's simple viewing pleasures, including the brook that trickles past the circa-1874 Methodist Church and a picturesque cottage nearby. Here in this idyllic community, structures are so well preserved that they give visitors a glimpse of what the village must have looked like in the 19th century. Elsah, in its entirety, was placed on the National Historic Register in 1973.

Also on the historic register is Principia College, a Christian Scientist, four-year liberal arts and sciences institution that currently enrolls 550 students from 21 countries and 40 American states. Its beautiful 100-year-old campus is situated high on the bluffs overlooking the Mississippi River. The road to the college can be accessed from Mill Street, the main thoroughfare running through Elsah. However, before campus entry is allowed, visitors must obtain permission at a guarded gatehouse at the top of the hill.

Historic Alton

Although there is no roadside marker, if you watch closely as you head south toward Alton, you will discover a painting of the Piasa (Pie-a-saw) Bird on a bluff above a parking lot that doubles as the starting point for the 22-mile Sam Vadalabene Bike Trail. A sidebar accompanying this story may provide answers to some questions about the bird-like monster.

After arriving at Alton from Elsah, one quickly reaches the downtown area-an interesting mixture of old business and industrial buildings, the colorful Alton Belle casino area and the magnificent dark Bridge. The 4,600-foot-long cable-stay bridge, which was named for explorer William dark of the famous Lewis and dark expedition, spans the river between Illinois and Missouri. It was constructed at a cost of $118 million, which included demolition of the old bridge. Located adjacent to the bridge, the Alton Marina is within walking distance to shopping, restaurants and entertainment. Billed as "The Destination Port on the Mississippi," it advertises that it "welcomes transient reservations and offers many luxury amenities in a safe, protected harbor."

Today, many of Alton's downtown business buildings house antique shops or eateries. You might want to give some consideration to lunch at Cane Bottom/My Just Desserts, 31 E. Broadway, where desserts are the obvious specialty. If you're still around for the dinner hour, you won't be disap

THE LEGEND OF THE PIASA BIRD Excerpts from the summer 2000 issue of the River Valley Explorer document the Legend of the Piasa Bird as written by John Russell in 1836: 'Out of the Western sky came a gigantic flying monster. Its body was much the size and shape of a horse; long, white fangs stabbed upward from the protruding lower jaw and flames leaped from its nostrils; two white, deer-like horns angled wickedly from its head. Its huge wings pounded the air with such force the trees bent; its stubby legs held dagger-like talons and its spiked tail wound around the grotesque body three times. Almost before the Illini braves realized their danger, the beast, soon to be Legend has it that the Piasa Bird originally was painted on the bluff by Tera-hi-on-a- wa-ka, in tribute to the victory of Ouatoga and the Illini, who stayed the beast. named the Piasa Bird, swooped across the beach and carried one away. From that moment on, the Illini were terrorized by this incredible and blood-thirsty monster.... 'The Illini looked to their chief, Ouatoga (Watoga), for a solution to this menace.... The beast seemed invulnerable. His body was covered with scales, like a coat-of-mail. The best efforts of Tera-hi-on-a-wa-ka, the arrow maker, and the tribe's finest archers were to no avail. Then Ouatoga appealed to the Great Spirit. For nearly a full moon he prayed and fasted. Then in a dream he found the answer. The body of the Piasa Bird was not protected under the wings.... 'When dawn came, only Ouatoga was visible, standing straight and firm in full view. The braves were hidden nearby behind a rock ledge, bows ready. Suddenly, the scream of the Piasa Bird broke the silence and the winged monster swept into view.... As the Piasa Bird raised its great wings in an effort to carry off its victim, the six braves stepped from their hiding place and shot six poisoned arrows into the unprotected place beneath the beast's wings. Again and again, the bird raised its wings to fly. But Ouatoga held fast and each time six poisoned arrows drove into the bird's vulnerable spot. Finally, the poison did its job. With a scream of agony, the Piasa Bird released its hold on Ouatoga and plunged down the bluff to disappear forever in the swift waters of the great river.... The next day, Tera-hi-on-a-wa-ka mixed paints and, carrying them to the bluff, painted a picture of the Piasa Bird in tribute to the victory of Ouatoga and the Illini. Every time an Indian passed the painting, he shot an arrow in salute to the bravery of Ouatoga and deliverance from the Piasa Bird.'

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Residents of Elsah believe they are the guardians of the village. They take responsibility for the preservation of their homes and public buildings, the plantings along the streets and the support of traditional community life.

pointed if you dine at Tony's Restaurant, 312 Piasa St., which has been serving Alton for more than 40 years.

Alton was founded in 1815, and its growth was based on river commerce. In 1837, abolitionist Elijah Parish Lovejoy, editor of the Alton Observer, was attacked and killed by a pro-slavery mob. Today, Lovejoy is revered as a martyr to liberty and freedom of the press. An elabo

rate monument in his memory at Alton Cemetery towers above Monument Street and notes "the first armed resistance to the aggressions of the slave power in America." Engraved in stone are Lovejoy's words: 'I have sworn eternal opposition to slavery, and by the blessing of God, I will never turn back.' He didn't.

In 1858, Abraham Lincoln came to Alton to debate Stephen Douglas in the final

The chapel at Principia College sits high on a bluff overlooking the Mississippi River.

Lincoln-Douglas debate in front of city hall. The event attracted a crowd of more than 6,000. Today, the memory of the debate is stirred by life-sized statues of the pair erected near the intersection of Broadway and Piasa streets. During the Civil War, Alton became a main supply point for the Union Armies and a key point on the underground railway as slaves fled north. It was also the site of a Confederate prisoner of war camp.

Downtown Alton afters those visiting the area, a shady to rest or dine.

A favorite Alton attraction is the statue of Robert Wadlow, Alton's "Gentle Giant." Officially listed as the tallest man in history by the Guinness Book of World Records, Wadlow was 8 feet, 11 inches tall and weighed 490 pounds when he passed away in 1940 at the age of 22. Although he was a normal 8 pounds, 6 ounces at birth, things changed quickly, and by the age of 5, he was 5 feet, 6 inches tall. At 10 years of age, he was 6 feet, 5 inches and already weighed more than 200 pounds.

George Pace of Alton attended Alton High School with Wadlow and recalled him as being a "very nice person." He said Wadlow's feet were so large that he "had to go up and down stair steps sideways, leaning with his back against the wall and sliding along."

Directly across the street from the Wadlow statue on the campus of Southern Illinois University's Dental School is the Alton Museum of History and Art. The museum has exhibits on Wadlow, Lovejoy, the underground railroad and the 1814 Wood River Massacre. However.

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George Pace of Alton attended Alton High School with Robert Wadlow, who was the tallest man in the world at the time of his death in 1940.

the museum is only open from 1-4 p.m. on Saturdays and Sundays. Other days, hours are from 10-4.

Keep in mind that the area from Alton to Pere Marquette State Park is pristine bald eagle-watching country and that many special tours and activities are scheduled each winter in conjunction with their presence in the area. Additionally, September and October are exceptional times for fall colors in Piasa Country. More information about special activities can be obtained by calling 1-800-258-6645.

Beyond Alton

Following the Great River Road south from Alton becomes more of

The cable-stay dark Bridge at Alton was constructed using 8,100 tons of structural steel, 44,100 cubic yards of concrete and more than 160 miles of cable.

an urban driving experience, as rural serenity gives way to industrial areas, traffic and route changes, including a jog on 1-270 east to connect with Route 111 and a few miles on 1-70/55 to hit Route 3. Watch for the river road markers, and take comfort in knowing it's not as challenging as making it through the Quad Cities. It still would be a good idea to avoid rush hour traffic, if possible.

You'll pass the entrance to Lewis and dark Historical Site. There you can get a look at the confluence of the Mississippi and Missouri rivers and a monument honoring the site where Lewis and dark assembled their explorers. A new $7 million interpretive center is scheduled to open there in time for the Lewis and dark Bicentennial Celebration in 2004.

Worth noting is a spur of the Great River Road that will take you to Cahokia Mounds State Historic Site at Collinsville, where the remains of a prehistoric Native American city are preserved. And if you venture into Collinsville, don't miss seeing the 170-foot-tall Brooks Catsup Bottle, a local landmark.

State Parks and Recreation Areas

If birdwatching, fishing, hiking or camping is your favorite pastime, you're in the right area for some relaxation. Horseshoe Lake State Park on State Route 111 near Granite City is home to Horseshoe Lake Island Hiking and Bird Trail, which offers an opportunity to see an extensive list of different species. Boat fishing with a horsepower limit of 25 is allowed except during waterfowl season. The lake

One of the most beautiful spots on the Great River Road is the grounds at the pierre Menard home. Menard was a frontierman and statesman who served as the first lieutenant governor of Illinois. The home was built in 1800.

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Chester is home to Popeye whose statue stands as a memorial to his creator Elzie Segar, a Chester native. The statue is located in a picnic area beside the bridge crossing the Mississippi River to Missouri.

contains channel catfish, bluegill, crappie and bass. Camping accommodations are available for 48 tents or trailers. Additionally, waterfowl hunting is allowed from public blinds during waterfowl season, dove hunting occurs on a portion of the island during September and controlled pheasant hunting is available.

A visit to Frank Holten State Park at East St. Louis is a must for those who love golf. Its 18-hole course, the Grand Marais, and its clubhouse serve as the focal points of the park. There also are facilities for baseball, football, soccer, tennis, picnicking and fishing at two lakes, where anglers will find channel catfish, largemouth bass and bluegill. The park is named in honor of Frank Holten, a longtime state legislator from East St. Louis who died in 1966 after serving in the Illinois General Assembly for 48 years.

Waterloo and on South

Waterloo, the county seat of Monroe County, is recognized as the site of the first permanent American settlement in the Northwest Territory, dating back to 1782. The Great River Road will take you right past Waterloo Winery, housed in an 1818 mansion north of the business district. Members of the Illinois Grape Growers and Vintners Association have joined forces to' promote Illinois' wine industry, and it is now possible to visit several vineyards in southern Illinois by touring the wine trails. For more information, contact any of the tourism offices listed in the "Information You Can Use" sidebar to this story. Another Monroe County attraction is the tour of the Kaskaskia Trace, where you can explore the area's French/German heritage at places such as Maeystown, (the entire village is on the national historic register) and Valmeyer, the town that was relocated atop a bluff following its devastation by the 1993 flood.

If you are ready for a close-up look at one of the area's Victorian mansions, consider an overnight stay at Red Bud's Magnolia Place Bed and Breakfast. Prices for the elegant rooms range from $75 to $160 (1,500 square foot, third floor suite) and include a breakfast to die for, Red Bud, 13 miles south of Waterloo, is a charming historic town known as "The Blossom City."

This particular area is rich in historic sites. A jaunt off the Great River Road on Route 155 south of Red Bud will take you through one of Illinois' oldest communities, Prairie DuRocher on the way to Fort de Chartres State Historic Site, where a replica of the original fort built by the French in the 1770s has been reconstructed. You also can visit the site of Fort Kaskaskia and the Pierre Menard Home, the beautifully restored residence of Illinois' first Lieutenant governor. All three sites are operated and maintained by the Illinois Historic Preservation Agency.

Returning to the river road, your focus may turn from history to humor when you catch a glimpse of the statue of Popeye at Chester. The statue is a monument to Chester native Elzie Segar, who created the muscle-bound sailor. (Metropolis, home of Superman, isn't all that far away as the crow flies.) While in town, visit the Randolph County Courthouse for a panoramic view of the Mississippi River valley from its fifth-floor observation deck.

Two miles south of Chester, a scenic overlook is provided at the Turkey Bluffs State Fish and Wildlife Area. Here visitors can

Ft. de Chartres dates from 1755 and represents the only French fort reconstruction in the United States. It is believed that 135 soldiers were housed there along with the commandant and the officers.

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enjoy fishing, hunting, hiking, picnicking, wildlife viewing and horseback riding. Also in the Chester vicinity is Randolph State Fish and Wildlife Area, where you can enjoy these same activities, plus camping (95 class C sites) and cross-country skiing.

The river road continues down Route 3, but towns are few and far between until you arrive at Cairo. You can detour to Lake Murphysboro State Park or Trail of Tears State Forest for a change of pace or stop by Union County Conservation Area along the way. The conservation area is a haven for many diverse forms of wildlife, including Canada geese, white-tailed deer and bald eagles.

Located in Alexander County just east of Route 3 and seven miles north of Cairo is Horseshoe Lake Conservation Area, famous for its cypress and tupelo trees. The 10,200-acre site, which is often referred to as the Illinois Bayou, was featured in the June 1998 issue of OutdoorIllinois. Also in the neighborhood is the Cache River area. (See related story on page 7.)

Finally, we come to the end of the Great River Road in Illinois at Cairo, the much-publicized city at the bottom tip of the state where the Ohio River converges with the Mississippi. No Illinois city was a more strategic place in the Civil War than Cairo, where the North amassed a vast concentration of armies, munitions and gunboats. However, in more recent times, the seat of Alexander County has gotten into the news as a result of racial strife and economic depression.

A few months ago. Time magazine found Cairo, in spite its efforts at rebuilding, to be gripped by desolation. And when Alan Solomon of the Chicago Tribune visited the city last year, he acknowledged that the 20th century hadn't been so kind to the city, characterizing it as a "rundown shell." Yet Solomon took steps to find positive things. He wrote: "The marquee of the long-closed Gem Theater on 8th Street glows once more. New-old street lights brighten 8th Street and Commercial Street, whose century-old stores, purchased by the city, have been painted and freshened, mostly by local volunteers. He concluded, "the historic district looks great."

Let us hope that this is followed by other successful steps by Cairo to recapture its old vitality.

An Up-Close and Personal Look

In Cairo, as in so many other places, tradition binds the past to the future. There is no escape from this realization. But, if this were not the case, a trek down the Great River Road would not be so interesting and certainly not as rewarding. Why not get out and explore the famous route for yourself? You'll be glad you did.

Information You Can Use Greater Alton/Twin Rivers Convention & Visitors Bureau 200 Piasa St., Alton, Ill. 62002 1-800-258-6645 http ://www. altoncvb.org Alton Marina #1 Henry St. Alton, Ill. 62002 (618) 462-9860 Alton Museum of History and Art 2809 College Ave. Alton, Ill. 62002 (618)462-2763 http://www.altonweb.com/museum Collinsville Convention and Visitors Bureau One Gateway Drive Collinsville, Ill. 62234 1-800-289-2388 http://www.collinsvillecvb.com Cahokia Mounds State Historic Site P.O. Box 681 Collinsville Ill. 62234 Phone:(618)346-5160 Southwestern Illinois Tourism and Convention Bureau 10950 Lincoln Trail Fairview Heights, Ill. 62208 1-800-442-1488 http://www.illinoissouthwest.org Horseshoe Lake State Park 3321 Hwy. 111 Granite City, Ill. 62040 (618)931-0270 http://dnr.state.il.us/lands/landmgt/parks/horsesp.htm Frank Holten State Park 4500 Pocket Road East St. Louis, Ill. 62005 (618)874-7920 http ://dnr. state. il. us/lands/landmgt/parks/frank. htm Southernmost Illinois Convention and Tourism Bureau P.O. Box 278 Ullin, Ill. 62992-0278 1-800-248-4373 www. southernmostillinois.com Magnolia Place Bed and Breakfast 317 South Main St. Red Bud, Ill. 62278 (618)282-4141 http://magnoliaplacebbestablishment.com Fort de Chartres 1350 State Rt. 155 Prairie du Rocher, Ill. 62277 (618) 284-7230 Fort Kaskaskia 4372 Park Road Ellis Grove, Ill. 62241 (618)859-3741 Pierre Menard Home 4230 Kaskaskia Road Ellis Grove, Ill. 62241 (618)859-3031 Turkey Bluffs State Fish and Wildlife Area http://dnr.state.il.us/lands/landmgt/parks/turkey.htm Randolph State Fish and Wildlife Area http://dnr.state.il.us/lands/landmgt/parks/rand.htm 4301 South Lakeside Drive Chester, Ill. 62233 (618) 826-2706 Trail of Tears State Forest 3240 State Forest Road Jonesboro, Ill. 62952 (618)833-4910 http://dnr.state.il.us/lands/landmgt/parks/trltears.htm Union County Conservation Area 2755 Refuge Road Jonesboro, Ill. 62952 (618)833-5175 http://dnr.state.il.us/lands/landmgt/parks/unionco.htm Horseshoe Lake Conservation Area P.O. Box 85 Miller City, Ill. 62962 (618) 776-5689 or (618)776-5281 http://dnr.state.il.us/lands/landmgt/parks/horshu.htm Recommended reading: Road Trip USA Cross Country Adventure on America's Two-Lane Highways by Jamie Jensen www.moon.com America's Great River Road the Lower Mississippi, Volume III by Pat Middleton http://www.greatriver.com

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