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A River Runs Through It

STORY BY BURKE SPEAKER
PHOTOS BY ADELE HODDE

For geological reasons, the glaciers that more than 10,000 years ago crept across Illinois, molding stoic rock formations and pancaking the land into swelling prairies, paid no heed to the state's northwestern corner. The terrain remained unscathed by the long-reigning icy lords, an oversight that allowed several different landscape formations to be viewed today. From rolling meadows to rocky bluffs and shadowed canyons, northwestern Illinois' Apple River Canyon State Park encapsulates a wealth of land formations, and touts a noteworthy past that still resonates across the land.

At Apple River Canyon State Park, a crystal-clear river mirrors rocky bluffs and a historic past echoes throughout the canyon.

Apple River Canyon State Park is a wonder and indigenous marvel. Located in eastern Jo Daviess County near the Wisconsin border, the area has great hiking, camping and fishing. Deep ravines, natural springs and gin-clear water characterize this 297-acre parcel. Though the tranquil river may seem incapable of such a feat, the limestone canyon walls were actually carved by the meandering waters of Apple River. It's a nature lover's paradise and an explorer's dream.

"The areas in Jo Daviess County are unique in that they are in this driftless area," said Site Superintendent Jeff Hensal, referring to land that escaped the glaciers' iron. "This county has so many different faces. It goes from severe rock edges and canyons to rolling hills; it's not like the flatlands in central Illinois. That's why the area is so special."

Of Glacier Shadows Past

The land for Apple River Canyon State Park was purchased in 1932 for the purpose of establishing a public park and a place where the unique characteristics of northwestern Illinois could be preserved. A rich history predates that purchase, with the wandering river always being the central keynote feature.

Steadily flowing for numerous centuries, Apple River eventually sliced through the amassed limestone until the impressive 150-foot cliffs and wide canyon you see today gave rise. Later, water and erosion scoured out crevices as rivers and streams barreled their way through the stone. All of this activity led to the canyon's redeeming luster and hidden beauty. Though to some people the canyon may appear plain at first glance, closer inspection reveals walls adorned with dark green mosses and lichens that cling like dangling trapeze artists on the jagged crevices.

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As they hike the trails, visitors can enjoy many varieties of wildflowers, including the endangered bird's eye primrose (bottom photo).

Because the glacial sweep ignored this section of Illinois, it not only left the terrain unflattened, but allowed for easy access to vast lead vein tracts. Historical accounts note that the Native Americans of the region used some of the natural lead mines. A French trader named Nicholas Perrot, who settled on the east side of the Mississippi in 1690, was the first European to see these mines. But the first to exploit them was Scotch adventurer John Law. His 'Company of the West,' founded in 1717 on a false claim that the Illinois lead mines were well-developed, fell apart and later went down in history as the "Mississippi Bubble."

An influx of settlers arrived at the region in the 19th century, leading to the region's rapid development. Soon, Native Americans were viewed as a nuisance, leading up to the banishment of the Sauk and Fox tribes following the Black Hawk War.

Nearby, Galena was quickly burgeoning in population as the lead mines boomed, and people traveled from far away to make their mark in the area. As more people flocked to the region, the town of Millville was laid out in 1835 at the park's present-day site. A blacksmith store, several shops and a token tavern were all part of the unassuming little village.
The dominant features of Apple River Canyon State Park are the stream and rock bluffs. These park visitors wade in the cool water of a shallow pool.
Today, not a trace of the town remains, save for a marker that denotes its vanished existence.
Named after its two sawmills, Millville flourished until 1854 when the Illinois Central Railroad—building its line from Freeport to Galena—passed four miles north of the town. The population waned until a fierce flood in 1892 washed out the dam, destroyed many buildings and drove out the townspeople forever.

Apple River Activities

With newly resurfaced roads and recent additions to make the site more accessible, opportunities for activities at the park are the best they've ever been. There's a full array of outdoor experiences to be had, from camping beneath a star-filled sky to casting away a lazy summer day.

Camping at Apple River Canyon is a primitive experience though, because no electricity or showers are available. Consider the challenge of getting yourself immersed in nature. Forget the television and radio, and learn to understand the heart of what camping is all about.
Apple River is a small stream, averaging less than 30 feet wide through the state park. Passing over the rocky stream bed, there are stretches of fast water, shallow pools and numerous riffle areas

18OutdoorIllinois

Information you can use: Address: Apple River Canyon State Park, 8763 E. Canyon Road, Apple River, IL 61001. Telephone: (815) 745-3302. Website: http://dnr.state.il.us/lands/landmgt/parks/apple.htm Directions: The park is located 2 1/2 hours west of Chicago. Take I-90a West to US Rt. 20 for about 50 miles to Rt. 78 North. Turn right onto Rt. 78, go six miles to Canyon Road and take a left on Canyon Road. The park is well signed on Rt. 20 and Rt. 78. If you are traveling from the south, take I- 39 to Rockford, then US Rt.20 West to Rt. 78 North, go six miles to Canyon Road and take a left on Canyon Road.

A scenic overlook in the state park gives these visitors a spectacular view of the Apple River and the river valley.

You may see wild turkey or white-tailed deer trotting through the woodlands during your stay, so make the most of it. There are 50 class C campsites, including one that is wheelchair accessible.

In addition to a primitive campground, the park offers trailer sites with a sanitary station. Camping permits must be obtained from the park staff. Likewise, a youth group camping area also is available, although reservations are required. While groups of 25 or more are welcome and encouraged to use the park's facilities, they must register in advance with the site office to avoid crowding or scheduling conflicts.

On warm summer mornings or breezy, crisp fall afternoons, anytime is the right time for a picnic. Four picnic areas with tables, drinking water and toilets lie along the river's banks, a perfect pit stop for your park activities. There also are three picnic shelters in case the weather turns against you. Playground equipment is provided in the youth group camping and main picnic areas.

Though there are no swimming areas at the site, the park offers great fishing opportunities. Smallmouth bass, sunfish, crappie, carp and suckers are all caught in the pristine river. Also, DNR stocks about 2,000 trout each, spring. Boating is not permitted in the park.

If you feel like abandoning the great fishing for awhile, take to one of five trails through the park, each with a varying level of difficulty. Pine Ridge, Tower Rock, River Route, Sunset and Primrose trails all wind through the woods, and each is about a mile long. The easiest of the five. Primrose Trail, is also one of the best from which to view the bluff and canyon. It is handicapped accessible. The toughest one to trek is Tower Rock, though the view is more than worth the hike.

Wildlife watching is another popular sport. While on the trails, watch for deer, squirrels, rabbits, raccoons, eagles, hawks and 47 other varieties of birds. At least 14 different ferns, more than 500 different herbaceous plants and 165 varieties of flowers can be viewed, including the bird's-eye primrose, an endangered plant that is found in Canada and Alaska. Apple River Canyon is the only place in the state that has this unique plant that can be seen along its bluffs.

In the fall, the multi-colored leaves—in hues of gold, cardinal red and bright orange—dance in the breeze and dazzle with their rich splendor. About anytime of the year, Apple River Canyon offers something unique. So pack your outdoor gear and go to where the glaciers didn't. You'll discover an untouched area of Illinois beauty.

Burke Speaker is a student at Southern Illinois University. He served as a summer intern with OutdoorIllinois

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