By PETER A. RATHBUN Cahokia: forgotten metropolis

Once the greatest city in North America, Cahokia was a victim of neglect for over 400 years. Recently, it was added to the World Heritage List of manmade and natural wonders, joining landmarks like the pyramids of Egypt, Mt. Everest, Louis XIV's Versailles Palace and the Grand Canyon. Although its future remains problematic, just before Christmas the governor thawed his freeze on the $1 million-plus appropriations for acquisition of the major remaining lots within the site. This article was sponsored by the Illinois Humanities Council. Photo courtesy Illinois State Museum An aerial view of Monks Mound from the east in the mid-1960s, showing excavations in progress on the top by Washington University. Recent land acquisitions have purchased all the land in the foreground and the modern structures have been removed and the field returned to a grass cover.

A MYSTERIOUS civilization once occupied the river valleys of Illinois and the Midwest. Its central city and grandest monuments were located in the fertile river bottom across the Mississippi from the present city of St. Louis. The ancient metropolis that we call "Cahokia" spread over six square miles and was the site of about a hundred mounds. With a population ranging from 10,000 to 40,000, it was the largest city in what is now the United States. Cahokia was the focus of a number of suburbs linked to the main city.

Cahokia Mounds is the remains of a complex civilization which arose during the period of the Viking attacks on Europe and disappeared abruptly about the time of Columbus' discovery of America. The site then dropped from the mainstream of history, although it is still an interesting stop for the knowledgeable. With appropriate development it could be a fascinating place, on the scale of Mesa Verde in southwest Colorado and the Aztec ruins in Mexico. Its historical and archaeological importance clearly warrants such attention.

A signal acknowledgment of the importance of Cahokia Mounds has been the placement of the site on the World Heritage List. Here the Mounds are in the elevated company of Independence Hall, the Grand Canyon and the Great Pyramids of Egypt. The UNESCO World Heritage Committee has designated just over 100 historic, prehistoric and natural landmarks for inclusion on the list — man-made wonders like Louis XIV's Versailles Palace and natural treasures like Mt. Everest.

Cahokia Mounds' importance lies not only in the size and number of mounds at the site but also in the uniqueness of the civilization that created them. Archaeologists call the people who built Cahokia "Mississippians" to distinguish a culture that was distinctly different from those which preceded and followed it.

The impressive remnant dominating the scene at Cahokia is the enormous earthwork now called "Monks Mound." This grand mound was topped by a large building probably housing the city's leader who, as in many ancient cultures, was both king and god. The mound covers 14 acres and is 100-feet high, making it one of the largest prehistoric constructions in the world.

Surrounding the 400 most important acres of the city — including Monks Mound, plazas and buildings — was a large log stockade. This palisade was clearly defensive, but there is no clue as to the enemies or dangers that inspired its construction. Many small houses were outside the wall.

Another extremely interesting structure, known today as the "woodhenge," was also outside the stockade. The city's builders demonstrated a precise knowledge of mathematics and astronomy when they arranged these rings of wooden columns to determine solar and seasonal events. The goods and evidence of human sacrifice found in the burial sites both inside and outside the wall suggest a sophisticated and complex people, including an aristocracy with great power.

In spite of the power and influence of the Cahokians, their civilization disappeared mysteriously by sometime around the 15th century. For many years the Mounds sat, unnoticed and unused until the early 19th century when they become the home of a short-lived monastery, giving Monks Mound its name. Soon afterward, settlers began farming the area.

Interest in the Mounds grew in the 1800s; there was a call for public ownership in the 1890s, and in 1924, 144 acres were purchased to create Cahokia Mounds State Park. Little development was done, and as late as the 1950s, the state park consisted mainly

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Photo courtesy Cahokia Mounds Museum Society Aerial view of Monks Mound, the largest prehistoric earthen structure in the New World: 100-feet high and covering over 14 acres.

of Monks Mound and a caretaker's residence with a one-room museum. Interest in the site was rekindled by archaeologists who came into the area to work on salvage operations for the interstate highways. A campaign was begun for preservation, research and development, culminating in acquisitions which brought the park to about 600 acres.

The real leap forward occurred in 1971 when, under the late Dan Malkovich, the Illinois Department of Conservation (DOC) arranged for the Illinois State Museum to operate the museum and provide the public with information about Cahokia Mounds. Milton Thompson, then director of the State Museum, took the charge seriously and, using State Museum funds, began changes that resulted in a vastly improved site. New staff turned the abandoned caretaker's house into a makeshift museum and began interpretive programs, including an outreach program for area schools.

For a number of years Cahokia Mounds was almost constantly the scene of archaeological projects. As a vast store of data was accumulated, the secrets of the mysterious civilization began to be unearthed. Preservation of the site was also a major concern, and the DOC acquired more land.

By the mid-seventies the need for a new visitor center and museum to replace the old caretaker's residence became apparent. Supporters split over the location issue: where to put a visitor center/museum that would do the abandoned caretaker's house into a makeshift museum and began interpretive programs, including an outreach program for area schools.

For a number of years Cahokia Mounds was almost constantly the scene of archaeological projects. As a vast store of data was accumulated, the secrets of the mysterious civilization began to be unearthed. Preservation of the site was also a major concern, and the DOC acquired more land.

By the mid-seventies the need for a new visitor center and museum to replace the old caretaker's residence became apparent. Supporters split over the location issue: where to put a visitor center/museum that would do the least amount of damage to archaeological resources. Without consensus on location, hope for a new museum died.

Reconstructed Indian dwelling stands behind the Cahokia Mounds Museum.

Another casualty of the dispute was the State Museum's role in directing the interpretive programs. DOC reestablished control of the Cahokia Mounds Museum and its interpretive programs in 1976. Site superintendent James Anderson, a participant at the time, explained the move was logical because DOC was in the process of expanding the role of historic sites in its system and had created a division of historic sites headed by a historian.

Despite the administrative change, many of the programs that had been begun by the State Museum were continued in one form or another. The staff remained the same and continued the museum, outreach and visitor tour programs. When other programs appeared threatened, interested citizens founded the Cahokia Mounds Museum Society to continue such programs as the Museum Shop, the field schools and the "Cahokian" newsletter. The one program lost was archaeological research by the Mounds staff.

The state has continued land acquisition and the site now consists of 1,450 acres. The DOC has also created a very useful tool, the "Cahokia Mounds State Historic Site Master Management Plan," with the assistance its Cahokia Mounds Advisory Board of private citizens.

DOC director David Kenney has summarized the department's major goal at Cahokia as the preservation and protection of the archaeological remains while providing the visitor with something to see. The Master

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Management Plan outlines this goal and provides for a total conversion of the site, including relocating a highway and restoring mounds, temples, houses and the stockade. A new visitor center would be the key for introducing the visitor to the site in a logical manner. Unfortunately land acquisition and development by DOC was stalled by the state's fiscal crisis, and although significant funds became available for other facilities, funds for Cahokia Mounds remained frozen until December when Kenney obtained a limited release of funds to purchase the homes of senior citizens trapped in areas slated for purchase by the state. As things now stand, all the homes within DOC's "take line" are unsalable to anyone but the state. Kenney said that when funding levels for DOC are increased, Cahokia Mounds will be a major beneficiary.

The site is unknown because there is little to see beyond a few piles of earth — but without recognition, development of the site is difficult

Development funds for the new visitor center or even for the archaeological investigations needed to free its site for construction are not in DOC's budget. Joe Abell, who has been president of the Cahokia Mounds Museum Society since its formation, cites this omission in the state's commitment as the impetus behind plans for a private fund raising effort. Although this effort is still not under way, a related volunteer program is beginning to achieve limited but significant results. The society's programs continue to fill imporant gaps. For example, Cahokia's only archaeological research last year was carried out by the society's field school.

Perhaps the major impediment to expansion and development of the site is the lack of public awareness, an indifference which some say is caused by the lack of attention to pre-Columbian history in the schools. Increased awareness could lead eventually to greater funding and development of this important historical resource.

In some ways the problem is circular. The site is unknown because there is little to see beyond a few piles of earth — but without recognition, development of the site is difficult. The site staff, working with the Museum Society and volunteer groups, are dealing with this problem as well as they can. Recent joint projects include rebuilding the reconstructed huts and stockade behind the museum. But it appears that more than this is required. A massive reeducation and publicity effort is needed if the site is to get the public recognition it deserves.

One crucial question for the future of Cahokia is whether the DOC is the best agency to have responsibility for the Mounds. Director Kenney responds with a resounding yes. He feels that his department is the only state agency which can deal with both the cultural and land management aspects of the Cahokia site. Although no one doubts Kenney's commitment to the Mounds, there is uncertainty within the Museum Society as to whether an agency devoted to outdoor recreation can understand the problems of a prehistoric site. Other people, within DOC, have suggested that the Mounds be managed by the U.S. National Park Service.

Clearly, Cahokia is an important historical resource in Illinois. Whether it will fulfill the hopes of its supporters remains in doubt. The biggest needs facing the site remain funding and recognition. These needs are linked and must be addressed if Cahokia is to live up to its promise. Cahokia was once the greatest city north of Mexico. Perhaps some day, it will be recognized as the premiere archaeological site in the United States, and the great mound will once more be topped by its temple and surrounded by its stockade. If this happens, Illinois will have done justice to a site fully as important as Mesa Verde or the Aztec ruins. And tourists may be coming from all over the world to visit Cahokia.

Peter A. Rathbun is a partner in Rathbun Associates, a consulting firm which serves individuals, businesses and organizations interested in older and historic buildings. Previously, he worked for the historic sites division in the Department of Conservation.

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