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The Great River Road
And great sites along the way
BY LIZ PENSONEAU
Illinois. Our state. Here you can "Get Your Kicks on Route 66" traverse Chicago's "Magnificent Mile" or meander down the Great River Road from East Dubuque to Cairo. The latter being a scenic adventure, punctuated with historic towns, beautiful parks, lure and legend.
The Great River Road kicks off in East Dubuque—Illinois' sister city to the river town of Dubuque, Iowa. Both border the Mississippi River, and both date back to the days of Native American settlements.
Fourteen or so miles down the road, you'll arrive at Galena, home of Gen. Ulysses S. Grant, Civil War hero and the 18th president of the
United States. But, Grant's home is only one of the many attractions in the picturesque town, which is overflowing with intriguing buildings and Victorian mansions, many of which are bed and breakfast establishments. Be sure to make your first stop the Galena/Jo Daviess County Convention and Visitors Bureau, located in the old Illinois Central Railroad Depot at the corner of Park Avenue and Bouthillier Street, where you can pick up your copy of the Visitor's Guide. This outstanding guide contains a wealth of information about attractions, shops, outdoor adventure opportunities, dining and lodging. Maps of the area are included for both Galena and the surrounding vicinity.
The Great River Road can be navigated by following its green and white signage featuring the image of a pilot's wheel. As you breeze along, keep in mind that this state and federally designated road
Mississippi Palisades State Park offers one of the best views of the Mississippi River, even on a misty day.
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Galena was once the busiest
river port between St. Louis
and St. Paul, Minn.
Today its downtown
area stil offers visitors
a glimpse of the past.
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actually runs from Minnesota to the Gulf of Mexico. It was established in 1938 through the cooperation of 10 states adjoining the Mississippi River. In Illinois, it spans 580 miles, making its way down a tag team of scenic country highways, such as state routes 84, 92, 164, 96, 57, 100 and 3, and U.S. routes 20 and 34. The landscape is diverse and the beauty inspiring.
Twelve miles outside Galena, the strategically positioned Long Hollow Scenic Overlook Tower offers a view of three states: Iowa, Wisconsin and Illinois.Five miles farther south, the Village of Hanover, population 908, lays claim to being "
The Mallard Capital of the World." It's home to "Whistling Wings, Inc.," a family owned and operated business said to be the largest producer of live mallard ducks for worldwide delivery. The corporation's towering office dominates the village's main street, and a scenic road immediately behind the complex that leads to the Hanover Cemetery offers great photo opportunities.
Mississippi Palisades State Park
A lofty view of the Mississippi River can be had at Mississippi Palisades State Park, 3 miles north of Savanna. True to the name palisades, which means lofty, steep cliffs, its stately tree-shrouded rock formations stand in majestic splendor. Also visible are erosion carved
rock configurations, including Indian Head and Twin Sisters. These remarkable natural features led to the area's 1973 designation as a national landmark by the U.S. Department of the Interior.
With three scenic overlooks and a rugged 13-mile trail system, the 2,500-plus acre park is a prime attraction for sightseers and hikers. The five trails in the northern part of the park are generally wider and less strenuous. Their developed overlooks are accessible by short walks and offer outstanding views of the Mississippi River. Those with limited mobility can enjoy the view from Oak Point, which has a surfaced trail leading to its overlook. Trails in the park's southern section are narrow, hazardous when wet and, in some stretches, extremely close to the bluff.
Mississippi Palisades is a favorite with campers, who vie for its 241 Class A and B trailer sites on a first-come, first-served basis. Youth camp areas are available by reservation, and three primitive walk-in sites round out the camping menu. Speaking of menu, a camp store is open during the summer for the convenience of campers and other park visitors.
Anglers are drawn to the site because its habitat is perfect for so many kinds of fish, including carp, catfish, bluegill, crappie, bass, walleye and northern pike. There is no size limit on boat motors here, and launching ramps at the river access area are free. Other seasonal activities include firearm and archery hunting for deer and turkey, cross-country skiing and sledding.
Mississippi Palisades is also a great place for nature lovers and wildlife watchers. Here white-tailed deer, gray squirrel, skunk, muskrat, weasel, mink, gray and red fox, wild turkey, woodchuck and badger can be found. Waterfowl and shorebirds are numerous, and eagles feed at the river in January and February, weather permitting. Nature's floral attractions include trillium, wild geraniums, columbine, bluebell, lobelia, shooting star and yellow ladies' slipper.
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Belvedere Mansion (left), a 22-room Italinate residence at Galena, was constructed in 1857. Daisy Wllliamson of Rockford (right) frequently fishes at the Upper Mississippi River National Wildlife Refuge near Savanna.
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On The Road Again
Traveling the Great River Road can be adventuresome, educational and diversified. Charming small towns such as Hanover, Savanna, Thomson, Fulton, Albany and Port Byron are little jewels in their own right and invite exploration. Antique shops, museums, roadside markets, charming homes and restaurants, small businesses and the ever-presence of the fabled Mississippi make the trek a visual treat.
You can stop by the Upper Mississippi River National Wildlife and Fish Refuge, Savanna District, where you can marvel at the wetlands or enjoy some peaceful casting. Lock and Dam 13 between Thomson and Fulton is one site for the annual Bald Eagle Watch each January and is situated at one of the widest areas of the Mississippi River. You can also get a first-hand look the Thomson-Fulton Sand Prairie, a DNR prairie and nature preserve.
If you are a history buff, don't miss one of the largest remaining ancient Indian burial sites in the nation. The Albany Mounds State Historic Site is owned and managed by the Illinois Historic Preservation Agency. Here approximately 50 of the original 96 mounds remain. While in town, check out the immaculate Albany House restaurant. (How about a pancake sandwich—one egg sandwiched between two pancakes? Price $2.35. Or an 8-ounce sirloin steak and eggs plate, with toast, for $5.25.)
The Quad Cities
The Quad Cities make up the only major metropolitan area on the upper Great River Road in Illinois. Consisting of Rock Island and Moline in Illinois and Davenport and Bettendorf in Iowa, the Quad Cities present a stark contrast to rural regions to their north and south.
Two of the area's most famous attractions are the Rock Island Arsenal, whose museum features the largest collection of small firearms used in battles from Little Bighorn to Desert Storm, and the John Deere Pavilion, the most comprehensive agricultural exhibit in the world. However, the number one attraction is the Mississippi River itself. Here the riverfronts are open, offering easy access to the river, as well as a panoramic view. More than 65 miles of scenic parks, trails and overlooks make it possible to walk or bike along the RiverWay.
The Mississippi River Visitor's Center, adjacent to Lock & Dam 15, includes fascinating displays on the geography and ecology of the Upper Mississippi River and a program about the lock and dam system. Information on this and other
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Many treasures can be found at Albany's antique shops.
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things to do and see in the area is available from the Quad Cities Convention and Visitors Bureau, 1-.800-747-7800.
Heading South
If you can approach the Quad Cities on the Great River Road and still be on it when you head south, consider yourself an accomplished map reader and driver. It is not an easy feat.
Miles south of the Quad Cities, the river road rejoins the Mississippi in Mercer County, home of New Boston and the Sloan Brothers Produce Stand, where $3 buys 14 ears of corn and $5 a very large, ripe watermelon. A visit to New Boston, population 731, requires a one-mile detour off the Great River Road—well worth the effort. A sign proudly proclaims, "Welcome to New Boston on the Banks of the Mighty Mississippi. Surveyed by A. Lincoln, 1834." Two stately homes grace the north end of town, and on the river, you'll find the Bayview Fish Co., Inc.
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Sloan Brothers Produce is a fixture on the Great River Road north of
New Boston.
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The fire tower at Big River State Forest Is one of only two remaining in the state.
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Big River State Forest
It's on to Keithsburg, for another look at the Mississippi River from atop the town levy. Established in 1837, Keithsburg received the Governor's Hometown Award in 1995. It's also near Big River State Forest, a 2,900-acre site that is home to one of only two fire towers remaining in the state. Constructed in 1941, the 60-foot structure with its 7x7 foot lookout cab on top is listed
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Information You Can Use
Jo Daviess County Convention and Visitors Bureau
101 Bouthillier Street Galena, Ill. 61036
Phone toll-free in USA:
1-877-444-5850
Website: http://www.galena.org
Whistling Wings, Inc.
113 Washington Street Hanover, Ill, 61041-0509
[815)591-3512
http://www.e-z.net/~mallard/ index.html
Mississippi Palisades State Park
Ill. Rt. 84 Savanna, Ill. 61074
(815)273-2731
http://dnr.state.il.us/landsflandmgt/parks/palisade.htm
Quad Cities Convention and Visitors Bureau
2021 River Drive Moline, Ill. 61265
1-800-747-7800
http://www.quadcities.com/cvb
Big River State Forest
R.R.I, Box 118 Keithsburg, Ill. 61442
(309)374-2496
Delabar State Park
R.R. 2, Box 27
Oquawka, Ill. 61469
(309)374-2496
http://dnr.state.il.us/lands/landmgt/parks/delabar.htm
Grand Illinois Trail Coordinator
George Bellovics Dept. of Natural Resources
200 W. Washington St. Oregon, Ill. 61061
Phone:(815)732-9072
Fax:(815)732-4252
email: gbvics@essexl.com
For additional information on the Grand Illinois Trail, visit the DNR Grand Illinois Trail website:
http://dnr.state.il.us/orep/planning/git.htm.
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A monument at Oquawka marks the final resting place of Norma Jean, the circus elephant.
on the National Register of Towers. Today, fire fighting crews and equipment still stand ready to protect the forest during peak fire periods. Sixty miles of firebreaks interlace the forest.
A beautiful area, the forest is a remnant of a vast prairie woodland border that once covered much of Illinois. Its 1.5-mile Lincoln Hiking Trail commemorates Abraham Lincoln's march through here in 1832 when he led a company of militiamen to fight in the Black Hawk War. Fifteen miles of scenic roadways wind through the forest, as do 30 miles of marked snowmobiling trails. Horseback riding, picnicking, camping, boating, fishing, hiking and hunting are allowed.
Delabar State Park
Not far from Big River State Forest is Delabar State Park, an 89-acre site named in honor of Roy and Jack Delabar, brothers who donated the property to the state in 1959. Much of the park is forested and serves as natural habitat for a variety of wildlife species, including squirrel, rabbit, raccoon, deer, groundhog and quail. Birders from throughout the state come here to
observe the more than 50 species of birds. Two marked trails covering nearly 2 miles through the woods are available for nature lovers and wildlife observers.
Camping areas exist for tents, trailers and group camping, although open fires are prohibited and cooking is permitted only on camp stoves. There are three picnic areas equipped with picnic tables and stoves. One has a shelter to accommodate family gatherings.
River fishing is popular at Delabar, and boats with any size motors are allowed on the river. A launching ramp at the south end of the park and two boat docks make river access easy. In the winter, ice fishing and ice skating are popular activities.
Norma Jean
When most residents of Oquawka hear the name Norma Jean, it isn't Marilyn Monroe they think of first. It's the late Norma Jean, a 6,500-pound circus elephant with the Clark and Walters Circus. Buried a few blocks north of the town's main highway, a somewhat elaborate monument marks Norma Jean's final resting place. It reads: "Born August 10, 1942. Died July 27, 1972. Struck by lightening in this spot and buried here."
Just as Norma Jean's life ended at Oquawka in Henderson County, so ends this first segment of our trip down the Great River Road.
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Grand Illinois Trail
When planners envisioned a parkway along the Mississippi River more than 60 years ago, that dream became the Great River Road. Five years ago,the Director of the Department of Natural Resources fancied a long-distance trail in northern Illinois, and that led to the Grand Illinois Trail. The realization of both projects involved great vision and determination, and it seems appropriate that both have come to take advantage of the mighty Mississippi River as they find their way across northern Illinois. The Great River Road in northwestern Illinois also includes a portion of the Grand Illinois Trail (see Outdoorlllinois. June 2000).
Of the approximately 110 miles from Galena to Rock Island, nearly 50 miles of off-road Grand Illinois Trail are available for riding. Local roads bridge the gaps for those who seek to ride the entire distance. There's plenty to see along the way, as the trail connects with historic areas and shopping, dining and night life establishments. It also provides opportunities for viewing wildlife and restored prairies.
The trail begins downtown in historic Galena, then heads south, paralleling the Great River Road along low-volume roads to Hanover. From Hanover, another series of routes takes you along scenic back roads providing captivating views of the countryside on your way to Mississippi Palisades State Park near Savanna. Just south of Savanna, the trail provides access to Spring Lake, a part of the Upper Mississippi River National Wildlife Refuge, and six additional miles of hiking opportunities. At Thomson, the Corps of Engineers operates a campground and recreation area. A (railhead there provides you the opportunity to ride through restored prairies, a wildlife research area, Potters Marsh and a restored river slough and wildlife area.
Next stop is Fulton, where a newly constructed authentic windmill is a part of the town's rich Dutch heritage. Farther south is Albany, home to many of the famous river pilots who helped establish this settlement along the upper Mississippi River. At Albany, the trail wanders through Albany Mounds State Historic Site—the Hopewell Native American burial mounds—and more restored prairies. Farther south are the village of Cordova. Port Byron and the Quad Cities.
From East Moline, the Grand Illinois Trail will eventually travel east through Silvis and Carbon Cliff, then connect to the Hennepin Canal at Colona. Going west from East Moline, the Grand Illinois Trail is a spur connecting to the Great River Trail at Sunset Park in Rock Island. The trail runs from Rock Island north to Savanna, then uses local roads to wind its way to Galena before it begins its eastern run toward Freeport.
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Next month, we'll explore the Great River Road from Nauvoo to Alton.
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